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Measuring guide

How to Measure for Custom Cushions

The perfect fit starts with the tape, not the fabric. Measure twice and order once: a firm sewing (tailor’s) tape, dimensions to the nearest ½ inch, and the furniture itself — not a sagging old pad. Enter those numbers in the designer and we cut and sew in Griffin, Georgia to within ½″.

Measure the furniture, not the worn cushion

Old foam compresses and covers stretch. If you measure a tired pad, the replacement will be undersized the day it arrives. Measure the seat slats or frame opening: width side-to-side at the widest point, depth front-to-back. For thickness, measure the gap you want filled — from the slats to the sitting height — or an old cover laid flat without stretching. We build to the numbers you enter, so the frame is the source of truth.

Seat cushions

Record width and depth first. Dining chairs are often 18–22″ square; deep-seating lounge chairs run wider and deeper. If the front edge is wider than the back (a common patio silhouette), capture both widths — our designer supports tapered and trapezoid footprints. Note squared versus rounded corners so the cover follows the frame instead of hanging past the legs.

Back cushions

Measure back width and back height from the seat surface to the top of the back rail. Chair backs typically run 14–20″ tall; sofa backs are often shorter and wider. Decide whether you want a separate seat and back or a hinged one-piece (pinch or join). If the back is slatted or open, plan ties or a snug width so the pad does not slide.

Benches & window seats

Measure the full sitting length along the bench, then depth front-to-back. Bay windows and built-ins are often trapezoids: capture front width and back width separately. A dining bench with a back rail needs a second cushion with its own height. Long runs can be one piece or split into sections — split pieces are easier to flip, store, and ship.

Chaise lounges

Record overall length along the longest edge, seat depth, back height, and width. Note whether the back is fixed or adjustable — a hinged chaise needs a connected seat-and-back so the pad folds with the frame. Double chaises and daybeds use the same fields at a wider width. Thickness is usually 3–4″ for a lounge that still looks tailored.

Thickness, shape, and templates

Most customers pick 3–4″ for everyday seating; sofa seats often prefer 4–5″. Thicker is not always better on a dining chair — it can raise you off the table. Odd frames (boats, antiques, stone benches) can use a cardboard or paper template: we hold orders for customer-owned fabric and templates, and production time starts when they arrive at 1120 Everee Inn Road, Griffin, GA 30224. Call (866) 554-0804 if you want a second set of eyes before you click buy.

Questions

Frequently asked questions

Should I compress the tape when measuring foam?

Measure the cover or frame opening, not the squished foam. If replacing a cover, measure the old cover laid flat without stretching.

What tape should I use?

A sewing (tailor’s) tape is more accurate than a stiff carpenter’s tape on curved or wicker frames. Record width, depth, and thickness to the nearest ½ inch.

What if my furniture is between standard sizes?

That is exactly what custom cushions are for. Enter your exact numbers — we build within ½″. Call (866) 554-0804 if you need a second set of eyes.

How thick should I make my cushions?

Personal preference. Most customers find 3–4 inches the most popular choice for seating. Outdoor sofas often use 4–5″; ottoman tops can go 4–6″.

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